My first day in Paris. I take the bus and then the train from Bagneux, a little town in the suburbs, into the city and emerge from the Metro at Luxembourg. I don't even pause to get my bearings, but immediately head into the gardens. Never mind the crowds of tourists and Parisians on their lunch breaks--it is an oasis of calm. The grounds are vast...there's plenty of room for everyone. I sit on a bench, breathe deeply and take it all in.